I love hiking. I love being in nature, exploring new landscapes. I am inspired and refreshed by living greenness, water, mountains, paths through still forest. And I really enjoy the Czech mountains. (Did you know that the borders of the Czech are almost completely in the mountains?) So when I discovered that there is a "new" Appalachian-like Czech trail that leads from the most western point in the Czech to the most eastern point, going through the northern or southern mountain regions, I was captivated. "New" (in quotations) because the trails have been there - someone just sat down and decided to connect them, passing through interesting landmarks, to form a 1,000 km trail from end to end. I have no desire to hike the whole Appalachian trail (torture, anyone?) but this Czech trail, with the 10 sections it's divided into? That feels somewhat doable, at least sections of it. (So no, I haven't hiked the whole trail. Not yet. Just experimented with a couple short trips. π)
So I put in on Facebook, asking which of my friends might have interest in doing a section with me this summer. Now you have to understand, those who are most available and flexible are younger than me - generally GenXers who hold their options open till the last minute. So I wasn't sure about getting commitments from anyone to join me, and I wasn't too interested in trying to do this on my own at this point. Because Czech backpacking is slightly different than in the US. For one, the trails inevitable go through towns and villages where you might be able to pick up water or food. Though food is questionable... best not to count on it. But at least you can find a house or restaurant where you can fill up on water. It's generally ok to pitch a tent wherever in the nature. Maybe off the trail is better... especially in national parks where I'm not completely sure overnight camping is permitted. So essentially planning the route just comes down to searching a section of trail with the number of kilometers you think you can do, and finding transportation to the start and end points - bus or train or a combination of both.
This Stezka Ceskem (Trail through the Czech) is already broken up into sections of approximately 100 km (62 miles). I found one that goes through Czech Switzerland, where I've wanted to go to for a long time and haven't made it yet. And in the end I decided it would work better as two 50 km hikes and found two girls who were each willing to hike one part with me.
I haven't actually backpacked in a very long time. I'm not sure I could actually tell you the last time, outside of one night last year with girls. But then we didn't hike super far and it was just into the forest and back. So when I had packed my pack and went to put it on, I suddenly had a moment of panic. I enjoy walking, and 15-20 km in a day feels fairly doable to me. But carrying 16 kg (35 pounds) on my back (yes, I weighed it)...? Any confidence I had, and it was already a bit weak, quickly dissipated. But I was already committed. Meeting my friend Bara at 8:30 the next morning to begin our adventure.
The first day did not go well. The bus was late, which meant we would miss the train to the final destination. So we took the bus a bit farther in hopes of getting a later, different train. Which was also delayed... first by 15 minutes, then 30, then 50... due to "technical difficulties on the track". While waiting at the train station, we realized the camp stove attachment I had borrowed did not fit the gas bottle Bara had brought. We tried to quickly find a store to buy one or the other, with no luck. So got on the train when it finally arrived with no plan how to cook the suppers and breakfast we had with us. So we finally made it, 2 and a half hours later than expected, to this obscure station in the middle of nowhere - apparently only popular for hikers headed to various destinations.
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The vintage train that finally arrived an hour late
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The next challenge was skirting the mud which covered the path at some points. We were doing well until Bara sunk her shoes in to over the top. And she didn't have another pair of shoes with her. Washing them off in the stream nearby meant they were soaked, so she wore my boots while I continued to wear my Chacos. Fortunately I had brought 2 pairs of shoes, for fear of my Chacos giving me blisters after so many miles. But they did well! (unashamed Chaco promo π)
As we were getting close to where we wanted to find a spot to sleep that night, it started to rain. And then started to rain harder. So we stopped in this tiny patch of woods next to a stream. It was really quite pretty, but as we were desperate to get the tent up before we were soaked, we put it essentially on top of the trail, which was pretty much the only flat spot around. It rained half the night, and at one point I couldn't sleep for fear the stream would rise and just flood us. But we awoke to no rain and clearing. In fact, beautiful fog on the hills that morning when I got sick of Maggie lunging at our faces and walking all over us (12 hours of sleep for her, from the time we escaped the rain into the tent, was plenty!) and took her outside.
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| Morning after the rain drying out |
The second day, as Bara tried to tie her still-wet shoes on her pack, one kept falling off. And then after walking some kilometers I noticed one again was gone. Alas, it was truly gone, despite her retracing some of the trail to look. So I was stuck with Chacos and she with my hiking boots, which fortunately fit decently. The other loss of the day was a handkerchief which I had draped between straps on my pack to dry and mysteriously also disappeared somewhere along the way.
And I just had seemed to forget how much pain your body is constantly in carrying a pack. Shoulders, back, hips... legs, especially when walking uphill. It's brutal. My body sighed in relief at laying down each evening, and I felt ALL the aches every morning - barely able to sit up. Every time I wonder why I want to do this, and am convinced that day hikes are way better. And yet you can't see the breadth of landscape when you only have day hikes. So is another trip in 2 weeks doable? We'll see. It's already planned.
p.s. we didn't starve. Who knew, but instant oatmeal CAN be made with cold water π And we had enough tuna and bread/crackers and cans of corn with us that it sufficed for supper.
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| Lovely nature |
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| Czech mountains |
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| Pravnicka brana in Czech Switzerland, which is apparently in the movie "The Lion, the Witch and the Wardrobe" |
p.p.s. the second trip was a bit better. First, no such difficulties as the first trip. And then primarily because EliΕ‘ka offered to carry my pack, which was heavier by far (I had the tent and camp stove and the majority of the food). But she's young and wanted to train for her athletic season approaching. My body was not nearly as sore. :) We didn't do the other half of the first section of trail as planned, because we didn't have enough time to complete it, but still did do part of the Stezka Ceskem. And instead I got to see another park area, AdrΕ‘pach, that I've long wanted to see. So, plus π
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| Huge rock formations |
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| This one is "hand holding an ice cream cone". See it? |
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| Trail markers. Have I mentioned how much I love this country's system of trails? |
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| Maggie was so tired she only wanted to eat laying down π |
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| Czech-Polish border! We hiked many km along the border |
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| This is interesting... C for Czech (P for Poland is on the other side). But you can see the outline of the former CS: Czechoslovakia |
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| So many blueberries to pick along the Polish border! Literally mile after mile of this. FYI: Maggie doesn't like blue |
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| Poland |
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| Dinner! |
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| Beautiful camp spot in the meadow overlooking a village |
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| And then this happened at the end of the trip π They were still wearable, but highly disappointing. A new pair is waiting for me in PA... |